What you’ll find in this article:
I had always dreamed of traveling to Peru: as a child, I was captivated by the books on ancient civilizations that my parents had given me, and the Incas were among those that inspired my imagination the most.
This trip was even more special because it was also my honeymoon, an adventure shared with my husband that we will carry in our hearts forever.
We traveled in June, in the middle of the southern hemisphere’s winter: the weather was perfect for exploring, with clear days and cold temperatures only at high altitudes, but without a single drop of rain.
It was a road trip through and through—intense and demanding: we covered a lot of ground, crossing mountains, deserts, and highlands, often traveling at night to reach our next destinations. In the end, we arrived tired but immensely happy and grateful for every moment we experienced.
A special mention goes to the bus transportation system, which was surprisingly efficient.
We chose the Cruz del Sur company, which turned out to be excellent: comfortable, punctual, and with reclining seats perfect for resting during the long journeys between cities.
14-day itinerary
✈️ Day 1 – Milan → Lima (by Madrid)
The trip begins at Milan Linate with a LATAM flight, with a layover in Madrid and then on to Lima.
Unfortunately, as soon as we arrived in Spain, we discovered that our flight to Lima had been canceled and rescheduled for the following day.
This setback forced us to cancel the half-day we had set aside for visiting Lima: we had to reach Paracas in time for a tour we had already booked.
As soon as we arrive in Lima, we take a Cruz del Sur bus bound for Paracas (about a 3-hour and 15-minute trip), arriving the following morning.
🐧 Day 2 – Paracas and the Huacachina Oasis
The day starts early with a trip to the Ballestas Islands, followed by a visit to the Paracas National Reserve, a perfect blend of desert and ocean.
In the afternoon, we head to Ica (1-hour bus ride) to visit the spectacular Huacachina, an oasis in the desert.
At sunset, we take a bus to Nazca (2.5 hours). We spend the night at the Marlon’s house.
✈️ Day 3 – The Mysterious Nazca Lines
The morning is set aside for a flight over the famous Nazca Lines, a unique experience that will leave you speechless. After exploring the surrounding area, a long overnight bus ride to Arequipa awaits us in the evening (about 10 hours).
🏛️ Day 4 – Discovering Arequipa
We arrive in the “White City,” Arequipa, famous for its colonial buildings made of white sillar stone and the magnificent Monastery of Santa Catalina. We spend the day enjoying culture and relaxation, staying overnight at the Perù Swiss Hostel.
🏔️ Day 5 – The Colca Valley and the Journey to Cuzco
Wake up at 3 a.m. for an intense hike in the Colca Canyon, one of the most spectacular in Peru (a tour lasting about 15 hours).
At sunset, we’ll take a night bus to Cusco (a trip of about 10 and a half hours).
🌆 Day 6 – Discovering Cuzco
A day dedicated to exploring the ancient Inca capital: Plaza de Armas, the Temple of the Sun (Qorikancha), and the cobblestone streets of the historic district.
Overnight stay at Hostal Cuzco de mis suenos II.
🌈 Day 7 – Rainbow Mountains
Departure at 3 a.m. for the hike to the incredible Rainbow Mountains (Vinicunca): a 3-hour drive, a 2-hour hike, and a breathtaking view.
Return to Cusco and overnight stay at the same hostel.
🌾 Day 8 – The Sacred Valley of the Incas
A day trip to the Sacred Valley, with stops in Chinchero, Maras, Moray, and Ollantaytambo.
In the evening, we’ll take the train to Aguas Calientes (1 hour and 40 minutes) and spend the night at a small local hotel.
🏯 Day 9 – Machu Picchu: A Dream Come True
It’s the day we’ve all been waiting for!
At dawn, we head up to Machu Picchu, where we spend about four hours exploring the Inca citadel and enjoying the view of the Andes.
In the afternoon, we take the train to Ollantaytambo and then a bus to Cusco (3.5 hours).
At 10:00 p.m., we take the overnight bus to Puno (7 hours).
🌊 Day 10 – Titicaca Lake
We arrive in Puno at dawn and immediately set off on an excursion to Lake Titicaca, visiting the Uros Islands and Taquile Island, taking in local communities and high-altitude landscapes.
Overnight stay in Puno at Mada Guesthouse.
🇧🇴 Day 11 – From Puno to La Paz
Early in the morning, we’ll take a bus to La Paz (about a 6-hour trip). We’ll spend the afternoon exploring the Bolivian capital, visiting its markets and riding the scenic cable cars.
In the evening, we’ll take a night bus to Uyuni (9 hours).
🧂 Day 12 – Salar de Uyuni, the salt flat
The adventure begins in the magical Salar de Uyuni, with visits to the Train Graveyard, Colchani, the Rosario Salt Processing Cooperative, and Isla Incahuasi.
Overnight stay in a salt hostel—a truly unique experience.
🌌 Day 13 – Among volcanoes and stars in the Salar de Uyuni
Wake up at 3 a.m. for an enchanting nighttime tour among the stars of the salt flats, followed by visits to the Tunupa Volcano, the Devil’s Cave, Cactus Island, and the Mummy Cave.
Return to and overnight stay in Uyuni at The Little House Aparthotel.
✈️ Day 14 – Flight to the Caribbean
This morning, we’ll fly from Uyuni to La Paz, then connect to Punta Cana, ready to wrap up our trip on the beaches of the Caribbean!
What to See in Perù:
- Ballestas Islands and Paracas National Reserve
- Huacachina Oasis
- The Nazca Lines and the surroundings
- Arequipa
- Colca Valley
- Cuzco
- Rainbow Mountains
- Sagrado Valley
- Machu Picchu
- Titicaca lake, Uros Islands and Taquile Island
What to see in Bolivia:
In Perù…
🐧 Ballestas Islands and Paracas National Reserve
Located along Peru’s southern coast, Paracas is one of the country’s most stunning natural wonders: a place where the desert meets the ocean and nature reveals itself in all its power.
The tour begins with a roughly two-hour boat trip to the Ballestas Islands, a small archipelago off the coast that is home to an extraordinary variety of marine life.
As you sail by, you can admire the mysterious Candelabro geoglyph, etched into the sand and visible only from the sea: its origin remains shrouded in mystery to this day, amid ancient legends and archaeological theories. Shortly afterward, the landscape comes alive: sea lions resting on the rocks, Humboldt penguins leaping through the waves, and a multitude of seabirds that literally cover the cliffs.
The contrast in colors is striking: the red base of the rocks, caused by iron minerals, is tinged with white due to the birds’ guano, which has been accumulating here for centuries. In fact, it almost never rains in these areas—rainfall is trapped between the Andes and the Amazon, leaving the coast immersed in a desert climate.
💡 Fun fact: For years, guano was one of Peru’s most valuable resources, exported around the world as a natural fertilizer.
After returning to the port, it’s worth continuing on to the Paracas National Reserve, where the desert meets the ocean in an almost lunar landscape.
The reserve offers breathtaking views, such as the spectacular Playa Roja, with its deep red sand, the panoramic cliffs of La Catedral, shaped by wind and waves, and the tranquil beach of Lagunillas, perfect for a brief seaside break.
The colors, contrasts, and silence of the desert make this place truly unique. It’s no surprise that scenes from several international films have been shot here, drawn by the beauty and surreal atmosphere of this stretch of coastline.
👉 Recommended tour:
I booked this combined tour directly with JD Adventure, A reliable local tour operator with expert guides and impeccable organization.
🏜️ Huacachina Oasis
In the heart of Peru’s coastal desert lies Huacachina, a small village nestled around a natural oasis amidst the sand dunes.
It’s an almost surreal place: an emerald-green lake, swaying palm trees, and golden sand stretching to the horizon.
The desert here is unique for its subtle color variations, caused by the different minerals that make up the fine sand.
It’s the perfect setting for two must-try activities: dune buggy riding, a high-speed adventure through the dunes, and sandboarding, a thrilling descent down the sand on a board. A mix of adrenaline and fun in the heart of the desert.
When the sun sets, everything is bathed in red and gold: the wind dies down, the sand glistens, and the oasis becomes a little miracle of tranquility.
💫 Fun fact:
According to legend, the oasis was formed from the tears of an Inca princess who wept over the death of her beloved. Her tears formed the lake, and she turned into a mermaid who, it is said, still inhabits its waters today.
👉 Practical tip:
Book the dune buggy and sandboarding tour in the late afternoon: the sunset light makes the experience even more spectacular.
🛩️ The Nazca Lines and the Surrounding Area
In the heart of one of the world’s driest deserts lies one of archaeology’s greatest mysteries: the Nazca Lines.
These gigantic figures etched into the sand—visible only from the air—continue to amaze and spark debate among scholars and travelers from around the world.
The flight lasts about 30 minutes and allows you to admire 14 of the most iconic figures: the Astronaut (135 m), the Hummingbird (97 m), the Monkey (110 m), and the majestic Condor (135 m).
The planes are small, carrying 6 passengers and 2 pilots, and seats are assigned based on weight to ensure the aircraft is properly balanced.
The experience is incredible—but be careful if you get airsick, because the turns to allow views on both sides of the plane can be quite bumpy!
According to local tradition, the lines are offerings to the gods to secure protection and water in such an arid region.
Certain symbols bear this out: the Tree, for example, is associated with the guarango, a plant considered sacred because it indicated the presence of underground water—a vital resource in such a dry region.
For the Nazca people, water was a symbol of life and fertility, and the depiction of this tree represented an offering to the gods to ensure its abundance.
Another intriguing figure is the Monkey, which some scholars believe suggests contact with distant civilizations, perhaps from the Amazon region, where these animals live.
Monkeys, in fact, do not exist in the Nazca Desert: their presence among the lines could be a sign of cultural or commercial exchanges with other peoples who shared similar beliefs and deities.
After the flight, the tour continues by land to the main archaeological sites in the surrounding area:
– the ancient Cantalloc aqueduct, where water still flows from underground today;
– the majestic Guarango tree, over 400 years old;
– an abandoned Nazca cemetery in the desert, whose authenticity is somewhat questionable—it seems more like a tourist attraction than a genuine archaeological site;
– the ceremonial site of Cahuachi, the great temple where religious rites and sacrifices to the gods were performed.
💫 Fun fact:
The Nazca Lines stretch across more than 500 square kilometers of desert and have endured for over 1,500 years thanks to the extremely dry, windless climate. It is precisely this aridity that has kept them intact over time, like a message etched into the earth.
👉 Recommended experience:
I booked the sightseeing flight with Alas Peruanas, a reliable operator with experienced pilots and a highly efficient organization.
🏛️ Arequipa, the “White City” between history and volcanoes
Surrounded by three imposing volcanoes and built almost entirely of white sillar, a volcanic stone that gives it its unmistakable luminosity, Arequipa is one of Peru’s most elegant and charming cities.
Its historic center, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, blends Spanish colonial architecture and Andean traditions in perfect harmony.
The tour began at the magnificent Monastery of Santa Catalina, a veritable city within a city: a labyrinth of ochre-colored narrow streets, flower-filled courtyards, and quiet cells that tell the story of the cloistered nuns’ lives. Perfectly preserved and meticulously maintained, it is one of the most evocative places in Arequipa. Inside, we treated ourselves to a simple but delicious breakfast, with a warm empanada and a coconut pastry: a moment of peace in the heart of this colonial gem.
After exploring the city’s squares and main attractions, the most exciting part of the tour was the visit to the Santuarios Andinos Museum, home to Juanita, the famous “Inca Mummy.” The tour is guided only and begins with a short documentary recounting the discovery of Juanita and other children found in the Andes, who were sacrificed during the Capacocha ritual. In the following rooms, you can admire textiles, ornaments, and precious artifacts belonging to these sacrificed children, until you reach the refrigerated display case where Juanita is preserved, having remained intact for over 500 years thanks to the ice of the Ampato volcano.
Juanita was about 12 years old and was likely the daughter of a non-Inca noble family. She was sacrificed to appease Pachamama, Mother Earth, and to ask for an end to famines or natural disasters such as eruptions and earthquakes. Her face, the only part not covered by skin, was uncovered after a landslide caused by the very eruption that led to the discovery of the tomb: a detail that makes her story even more poignant and real.
👉 Practical tip:
The Santuarios Andinos Museum is small but very interesting: it’s best to arrive early in the morning to avoid the lines and check beforehand whether Juanita is on display, since at certain times of the year she is replaced by another mummy for conservation reasons.
🦅 Colca Valley
The alarm goes off early: at 3 a.m., we leave Arequipa to head to one of Peru’s most spectacular natural wonders, the Colca Canyon.
The journey to Chivay takes about three hours and winds through ever-changing landscapes: arid plains, deep canyons, and snow-capped peaks silhouetted against the sky.
The first stop is in Yanque, where a typical breakfast included in the tour awaits us. From here we continue towards the famous Mirador Cruz del Cóndor, a panoramic point where you can watch the Andean condors soar above the valley. These majestic birds of prey, the symbol of Peru, can reach a wingspan of over three meters —and with a little luck (which we had!) they can be admired up close as they take flight using the canyon currents.
After this thrill, the tour continues along the valley with various scenic stops at the miradors of Choquetico, Maca and Antahuilque, from which you can admire the Colca Valley in all its splendor.
From up here you can see the ancient Inca agricultural terraces, still used today for growing wheat and other crops, a landscape shaped over the centuries by man and nature.
In the afternoon we indulge in an hour of relaxation at the Chacapi spa, where the warm natural waters flow in an enchanting setting.
After a tourist lunch in Chivay (about S/ 40 per person, included in the tour), we resume our return journey with a spectacular stop at the Mirador de los Volcanes, at 4,800 meters above sea level: from here you can enjoy a privileged view of the region’s volcanoes, and we were even lucky enough to witness a small eruption live!
The last stop is in the Reserva Nacional Pampa Cañahuas, a natural habitat of vicuñas, alpacas and llamas.
Vicuñas, more elegant and wild, are the only ones not domesticated, and their wool is among the finest in the world; alpacas and llamas, on the other hand, are domestic animals raised for wool and meat.
💫 Fun fact:
The Colca Valley is one of the deepest canyons on the planet —with over 3,000 meters of elevation gain— and, according to Andean legends, is the point where the condor transports souls to the sky.
👉 Recommended Tour:
I booked the excursion with Nomades Adventure: well-organized tour, prepared guides and an itinerary that allows you to discover all the most beautiful points of the valley in a single day.
🏙️ Cusco, the ancient capital of the Incas
Situated at almost 3,400 meters above sea level in the Peruvian Andes, Cusco is a city that fascinates from the first glance.
The ancient capital of the Inca Empire, today it is a place where history, culture, and spirituality coexist in perfect harmony: colonial churches built on thousand-year-old temples, cobbled alleys, and a vibrant atmosphere that makes it one of a kind.
We began our visit from the beautiful Plaza de Armas, the beating heart of the city, where a large police parade was taking place that day.
Between music, dance and traditional costumes, the square was a riot of colour and celebration.
The majestic Cathedral and the Church of the Society of Jesus overlook the square: climbing to the upper floor of the latter offers spectacular views of the entire square.
In the afternoon we reached the fortress of Sacsayhuamán, one of the most impressive archaeological sites in the Inca world, built with enormous stone blocks perfectly fitted together.
From above you can admire the entire city of Cusco, and you can perceive the grandeur of ancient Andean architecture.
We then visited the Qorikancha, the “Temple of the Sun”, which was once the holiest site in the empire.
The visit, however, proved a bit disappointing: the guide must be hired outside (but no one clearly indicates this), the internal QR codes do not work and the brochure does not provide in-depth explanations.
A real shame, considering the historical and symbolic value of the site.
The day ended at the Qosqo Cultural Center, where we attended a performance of traditional music and dance.
An evocative moment to fully immerse yourself in Andean culture and discover the colors, sounds and customs that still animate life in Cusco today.
💫 Fun fact:
The name “Cusco” derives from the Quechua Qosqo, meaning “navel of the world”: for the Incas it represented the center of the universe, the point of connection between heaven, earth and the underworld.
👉 Practical tip:
If you want to visit the Qorikancha, arrange a local guide in advance: the explanation of the symbols and architectural details makes the visit much more interesting and comprehensive.
🌈 Rainbow Mountain
Vinicunca, also known as Rainbow Mountain, is a mountain located around Cusco, famous for its natural colored stripes created by the minerals present in the rock.
This peak had been known to native peoples for centuries, but only recently became internationally famous after early hikers shared images of it on social media, capturing its surreal beauty.
Until 2016, reaching it was much longer and more strenuous, almost impossible for most visitors; today, thanks to a shortened route that starts further on, the climb is accessible to anyone who wants to admire this extraordinary natural spectacle.
The tour operator picked us up directly at the hotel very early in the morning.
We stopped in Cusipata for a local breakfast, before reaching Fulawasipata, the starting point of the trek.
The guide gave us a brief informative briefing, and then we began the walk at the foot of the beautiful Ausangate mountain range.
The route starts at an altitude of 4,700 metres and reaches up to 5,036 metres, covering approximately 3 km uphill and the same number downhill.
Fatigue is mainly related to altitude; even those accustomed to trekking must pay attention to their breathing and the pace of the climb. Alternatives with horses or motorbikes are available for those who wish.
Once at the top, we had free time to admire the scenery, take photos, and listen to the guide tell the story of the mountain and its spectacular colors.
The descent took about an hour, and at the end we stopped for a local buffet lunch before returning to Cusco in the early afternoon.
👉 Recommended Tour:
We booked the trek with Rainbow Mountain Travels, a reliable operator with expert guides and well-organized route.
🌄 Valle Sagrado
The Sacred Valley of the Incas is one of Peru’s most fascinating regions, where history, culture, and natural landscapes intertwine. The Inca empire was divided into four regions, and the greatest expansion occurred with Pachacutec.
The main cities had sacred animal forms: Cusco in the shape of a cougar, Ollantaytambo in the shape of a llama, Pisac as a hummingbird, Machu Picchu in the shape of a crocodile, and Chinchero as a fox.
Chinchero
In Chinchero, before entering the village, we visited the Munay Away textile center, where they showed us the process of creating textile products, entirely manual and natural.
The village’s archaeological site combines Inca and Spanish elements: the Inca foundations with the squared stone walls and trapezoidal gates are still visible, while plastered walls from later periods were built above.
The village church stands on the remains of an ancient Inca temple. Beneath the main square is a clearing where potatoes were once dehydrated, then stored in underground warehouses similar to natural refrigerators, an activity that the residents of Chinchero continue to practice today. Next to it, the agricultural terraces show the cultivation techniques of the Incas: today about 70% are original, while 30% have been rebuilt.
Saline di Maras
The Maras salt pans belong to about 180 local families and date back to the 4th-6th century AD.
The Incas used them to preserve meat and salt food, while with the arrival of the Spanish they also served as a barter commodity, from which the word wage derives.
Each tank produces between 50 and 150 kg of salt. The tanks are divided into three levels: the first is inedible, the second and third yes, with the third level considered the best, free of sodium.
Moray
The site of Moray, originally called Muray, was an ancient lake transformed into a complex of circular terraces that served as a true natural greenhouse for crops of different altitudes.
Each terrace has a temperature difference of about half a degree centigrade, allowing you to grow different varieties.
The terraces were built by the Incas in 1438; today approximately ’80% are reconstructions, while 20% are original.
In addition to this, there are three other greenhouses that represented different regions of the empire.
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo Fortress is a masterpiece of Inca engineering, built on 44 terraces to control water flow and create gardens and agricultural spaces.
In the village you can see blue gates, reserved for nobles, while in front of the fortress are the warehouses perched on the mountain.
The masonry of the fortress varies: some with mortar, others without, using the concave-convex technique and constrained by rings of gold, silver and copper to resist earthquakes. On the highest floor, a wall with small windows housed icons of the gods; another door, called the Sun Gate, was aligned with the solstices and equinoxes.
On the mountain in front you can see the faces of a god and the Inca indicating the solar and lunar cycles. Construction took 50 years and 25,000 people, probably with the help of experienced engineers from pre-Inca cultures in Bolivia.
The stones were moved with ramps, hay ropes, and jungle tree trunks, and even today the technique remains astonishing in precision and stability.
💫 Fun facts:
– Every 26 km of road the Incas built a refreshment point for the lamas, because they could not travel greater distances without stopping.
– Three dialects were spoken, but today only Quechua and Aymara remain; the third, that of the nobles, disappeared because it was complex to pronounce.
– Today in Peru there are approximately 2,700 varieties of potatoes, many of which are still grown on ancient terraces.
🏔️ Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas, is one of the most fascinating and mysterious places in Peru.
It was built in about fifty years and inhabited for only thirty, before being abandoned by the Incas when they realized that the Spanish were invading and destroying all their cities.
To avoid desecration and destruction, they decided to abandon it voluntarily, leaving it to the mountains and vegetation.
For centuries Machu Picchu remained hidden, protected by the jungle that completely enveloped its ruins. This natural isolation was also its salvation: the city is in fact almost totally original, precisely thanks to the vegetation cover that preserved its structures.
In 1911, American explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered it with the help of some natives of the area, who guided him to the ruins.
A year later he returned with an archaeological expedition: to clear the site of vegetation, men burned the area, thus removing the jungle. Fortunately, the damage was contained — the thatched roofs had already disappeared due to humidity, and only a few walls collapsed due to the roots they had dug into the stone.
Architecture and function of the city
Machu Picchu was built directly on the source rock, which was incorporated into the buildings. The fertile land was instead transported from over 7 km away, an extraordinary feat for the time.
The city was the capital of one of the provinces of the Inca Empire, the one that connected Cusco to the Amazon.
Its main function was as a city of knowledge: a place dedicated to the education and training of young people destined for prominent roles in the empire.
The masters lived in one part of the city, while the students lived in the other, where the weaving and metallurgy workshops were also located, where highly valuable artefacts were produced.
Machu Picchu was also a center of astronomical studies: stones with precise inclinations with respect to the cardinal points testify to the profound knowledge of the solar system, the solstices and the equinoxes. The Incas used these observations to regulate agricultural and religious cycles.
The city was divided into two main areas: a residential and an agricultural one, with terraces that served not only for cultivation, but also to experiment with new techniques and plant varieties adapted to different altitudes.
Preservation of the site
Our guide told us that, despite the site’s global importance, the conservation of Machu Picchu is becoming increasingly complex.
Much of the ancient knowledge has been lost over time, and today it is difficult even to recreate the original soil mix, the one that made the soil impermeable and stable.
Each year, Machu Picchu generates approximately $200 million in revenue, but only $3 million is actually allocated to maintenance and restoration: the rest ends up in the state coffers.
💫 Fun facts:
– The construction of Machu Picchu required extraordinary precision: the stones were carved and interlocked without the use of mortar, withstanding earthquakes and torrential rains over the centuries.
– The city was never found by the Spanish, which is why it is one of the few Inca ruins left almost intact.
– Machu Picchu was probably also a sacred place, chosen for its location between two mountain peaks considered symbolically powerful.
🌊 Lake Titicaca – Le Isole Uros e Taquile
Situated at over 3,800 meters above sea level, Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world. Its deep blue waters stretch between Peru and Bolivia, preserving ancient traditions and communities that still live in perfect harmony with nature today.
🛶 Uros islands
Our visit began with the Uros Islands, an archipelago of small floating islands built entirely from Totora, an aquatic plant that grows wild in the lake.
The Uros are one of the oldest communities in South America — according to some theories, their origins date back to Polynesia, passing through the coasts of Chile.
On these islands, the Totora is truly the foundation of everything: it is used to build the homes, boats, and even the very foundations of the islands, anchored up to 20 meters deep. The inhabitants also eat it, in some traditional preparations.
We visited one of the islands inhabited by a Uros family, who showed us their daily lives and explained how, even today, the entire community lives according to ancient and sustainable rhythms.
There are even floating schools on the archipelago, where children can study up to high school.
At one time, however, the Uros did not live on the lake: they inhabited the mainland and devoted themselves to fishing. When the Incas arrived, they were forced to work in the fields, but their vocation for water drove them to flee and take refuge on the Titicaca. They discovered that the Totora was floating and decided to build their new world on it.
🏝️ Taquile Island
The second stop was Taquile, an island of stone and red earth that emerges from the deep blue of the lake.
Recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, Taquile still preserves ancestral cults and community traditions from the Inca era.
We walked about 2 km through scenic trails and small villages where the inhabitants work stone following ancient Inca methods. In the main square we witnessed a colorful performance of traditional dances and music, as men and women wove their renowned hand-woven fabrics, passing down centuries-old techniques.
Perhaps a little more touristy than other experiences, but it remains a unique place, where it is still possible to perceive the strength of traditions and the profound connection between man and nature.
… In Bolivia
🏔️ La Paz
At over 3,600 meters above sea level, nestled in the Andean mountains, La Paz is a city that stands out for its contrasts: chaotic and fascinating, modern and deeply rooted in its ancestral roots.
We began our visit from the famous Mercado de las Brujas, the witches’ market, a unique place where medicinal herbs, amulets, and ritual objects related to Aymara culture are found. Walking among the stalls is like entering a world suspended between magic and tradition: vendors display potions, incense, amulets for fortune, and even dried llama or alpaca fetuses, used in rituals as offerings to Pachamama, Mother Earth.
We then visited Plaza Mayor and the Church of San Francisco, an imposing colonial building with a finely decorated facade, and later Plaza Murillo, the political heart of Bolivia, where the Cathedral and the Government Palace are located.
To enjoy a panoramic view of the city, we climbed up to the Mirador Killi Killi, from which you can admire La Paz stretching out at the bottom of the valley, surrounded by mountains and houses climbing the slopes.
The return was equally impressive: we took the cable car, a modern urban cable car system that connects the various areas of the city built at different altitude levels. It’s a really pleasant experience — not only practical, but also panoramic, because it allows you to observe La Paz from above in all its movement.
Overall, La Paz felt like a busy and somewhat chaotic city, with crowded streets and a messy atmosphere. But its true beauty perhaps lies precisely here: in its authentic character and in the way the Aymara people have managed to pass on their traditions amidst the chaos of modernity.
💡 Fun facts:
– The La Paz zip line is the highest urban transportation system in the world: it connects the entire city and nearby El Alto, making travel quick despite significant elevation changes.
– Aymara women, called cholitas, still wear their traditional clothing today: wide, overlapping ruffled skirts (polleras), colorful shawls, and domed hats, a symbol of pride and cultural identity.
– In the Mercado de las Brujas it is common to find ritual offerings to Pachamama, such as coca leaves and the aforementioned llama or alpaca fetuses, considered good luck and a sign of prosperity.
🧂 Salar de Uyuni
The Salar de Uyuni is one of those places that seem to belong to another planet: a white desert that extends as far as the eye can see for over 10,000 km², where the sky and the earth merge into a single horizon.
Our tour started at 10:00 am in a Toyota Land Cruiser 4×4, along with the guide and other travelers.
The first stop was the Train Cemetery, a place suspended in time where the rusty remains of ancient steam locomotives that once transported precious minerals such as gold and silver between Bolivia, Chile, and Peru are located. Today, the railway is still in operation, but only for a few commercial trains; the old locomotives, abandoned in the desert for more than a century, have become an open-air museum, prey to wind and sand.
From there we continued on to Colchani, a small village where the salt of the great salar is still handcrafted. Here we were able to see the salt extraction and iodization process up close and visit local markets before heading into the heart of the white desert.
Between pyramids of salt, the Dakar monument and the enigmatic “eyes of the salar” — small natural springs emerging from the ground — the landscape is simply hypnotic.
At the former Hotel in Sale Playa Blanca, built entirely of salt blocks, we enjoyed a typical Bolivian lunch, surrounded by a surreal panorama. The classic photos in perspective, playing with infinity and the optical magic of the salar, could not be missing.
In the afternoon we reached Isla Incahuasi, known as “the island of giant cacti”, which offers breathtaking views of the desert at 360°. At sunset, the salar transformed into a huge natural mirror, perfectly reflecting the sky and creating a spectacle that is difficult to describe in words.
The day ended with a typical dinner and an overnight stay in a salt hostel. But the most magical moment came later: a night tour under the Milky Way.
Moonless, the sky filled with millions of stars, and the absolute silence of the desert made the experience simply unforgettable.
The next morning, after breakfast, we set off again towards the Tunupa Volcano, once again crossing the 120 km of the salar.
On the way we saw llamas and pink flamingos in the surrounding lagoons and the evocative “Stairway to the sky”, a natural formation that seems to lead endlessly.
In our 4×4 we climbed to 4,200 meters of altitude, visiting the Cave of Mummies and then undertaking a trek of about three hours to the first viewpoint of the volcano. The climb was challenging, but the view of the Tunupa crater and the immensity of the salar made all the effort worthwhile.
After a packed lunch at the foot of the volcano, we returned to Uyuni, concluding the tour in the late afternoon, tired but full of wonder.
💡 Fun facts:
– The population of Uyuni is mainly of Quechua ethnicity, unlike La Paz, where the Aymara one prevails.
– The salar was formed after the evaporation of an ancient prehistoric sea, and today contains one of the largest lithium reserves in the world.
– Isla Incahuasi, with its cacti up to 10 meters high, is actually an ancient fossil coral rock.
– During the rainy season (December to March), a thin film of water transforms the entire salar into a perfect mirror, one of the most photographed views in the world.
👉 Suggested tour:
We booked the excursion with Andes Salt Expeditions, a reliable operator, with 4×4 tours and all highlights included.
What to eat
Every stop on our Peru-Bolivia road trip was also a little journey into taste. From the hot soups of Andean cities to the seafood dishes of the coast, to the coconut-scented desserts enjoyed in colonial cloisters: local cuisine speaks, more than any word, of the soul of these places.
We discovered authentic flavors, often simple and genuine, always accompanied by a smile and great hospitality.
📍 Paracas – Milla Zero Restaurant
A great sea view lunch: arroz with mariscos and jalea mixta, two Peruvian coastal classics made with fish and seafood.
💰 115 soles
📍 Nazca – Rico Pollo
Typical and authentic dinner: I chose a sopa especial, a rich broth with meat and vegetables, while my husband had mostrito a lo pobre, with chicken a la brasa, rice, fried plantain, and egg.
💰 61 soles
📍 Arequipa – Breakfast at the Monastery of Santa Catalina
In the sweet break within the walls of the monastery: warm empanada and dulce de coco, simple but delicious.
📍 Arequipa – Lunch at Xarsa Mora
Homemade and tasty dishes as sopa de camarones, ají de gallina, maní y patí, arroz con pollo and causa rellena accompanied by rice and local side dishes.
💰 35,20 soles
📍 Arequipa – Dinner at Alaseña
In Arequipa we dined at Alaseña, a welcoming and inclusive restaurant run by deaf and dumb people. Here we tasted the tender and tasty grilled alpaca meat, served with a side of vegetables, French fries and typical sauces.
💰 129 soles
📍 Cuzco – Breakfast at Cicciolina
Local with European charm and warm atmosphere. Memorable breakfast: rustic bacon and egg toast for him, fruit crepes, chocolate, and vanilla ice cream for me.
💰 20 euro
📍 Cuzco – Lunch at Kusikay
Contemporary Peruvian cuisine with a creative touch: we chose tacos and chicharrón, crispy and tasty pork belly, accompanied by typical sauces. To drink, the classic chicha morada, a soft drink made from purple corn, flavored with cinnamon, cloves and lime juice — fresh and fragrant— and a natural lemonade.
💰 30 euro
📍 Cuzco – Dinner at Chull’s
In Cusco we dined at a downtown fancy restaurant enjoying a mixed appetizer with ceviche, a croquette of papa rellena and criollo rice. As a main course we shared the famous cuy, guinea pig, considered a true delicacy of Peruvian cuisine. For dessert, a delicate dessert made with lucuma (typical Andean fruit) and berries. All accompanied by a pisco sour, the national cocktail made with pisco, lime juice, and egg white.
📍 Aguas Calientes – Lunch at Ponchos
In the heart of Aguas Calientes, a colorful and welcoming restaurant overlooking the river.
We started with a ceviche de pescado and a sopa caliente de verduras, perfect for warming up after the climb to the archaeological site.
As main dishes, chicharrón de cerdo crispy and a estofado de res rich and tasty.
💰 56 euro
📍 Uyuni – Dinner at Bouquet du Vin
Small cozy restaurant in the city center.
We divided an hamburguesa con papas fritas and a plate of carne asada served with arroz and papas cocidas — generous portions and simple yet tasty flavors.
💰 145 bolivianos
